Pollinator-Friendly Pest Control in Sacramento: How to Manage Garden Pests Without Killing Bees

Pollinator-friendly pest control in Sacramento starts with one rule: skip the spray bottle until you have tried everything else. UC Statewide IPM Program and the Xerces Society both recommend a tiered approach — prevention, monitoring, non-chemical interventions, and only then targeted low-toxicity products applied at dusk to confirmed pest hotspots. That tier order matters because the broad-spectrum products most homeowners grab first — neonicotinoid drenches, carbamate dusts, pyrethroid sprays — kill the predators that would have eaten the pest for free, kill bees foraging on the same plants, and frequently make the original problem worse in the following weeks.

California AB 363, which took effect January 1, 2025, removed roughly 150 neonicotinoid consumer products from Sacramento retail shelves for outdoor ornamental use. That is the new legal floor — but the conservation floor goes further. This guide walks through bee-safe pest control for Sacramento home gardeners, lawn-care clients, and small commercial growers: which pests warrant action, the order of operations that protects pollinators, which products are acceptable when nothing else works, when to spray, and what to do if you find a honey bee colony in a structure you were about to treat.

TL;DR — Sacramento Pollinator-Friendly Pest Control in 8 Steps

• Identify the pest before you treat. Most things you see in a Sacramento garden are not pests — UC Statewide IPM Program estimates roughly 90% of insects in a typical yard are neutral or beneficial.
• Set an action threshold. A few aphids on a rosebud or a couple of chewed leaves does not need treatment. Treat only when damage is meaningful or accelerating.
• Try non-chemical control first: water sprays for aphids, hand-picking caterpillars, row covers on young vegetables, sticky traps for whiteflies, and habitat for beneficial predators.
• If a product is necessary, choose the lowest-toxicity option that solves the specific problem — insecticidal soap, narrow-range horticultural oil, or a targeted Bt formulation are usually enough.
• Skip every neonicotinoid on outdoor ornamentals. California AB 363 prohibits their retail sale for that use, and the conservation case against them is unambiguous.
• Spray after sundown, never on plants in bloom, never on windy days, and never on flowering weeds in the application zone.
• Build a pollinator-positive landscape: diverse flowering natives, insectary plants, water sources, and undisturbed nesting habitat reduce pest pressure year over year.
• Found a honey bee colony in a wall, tree, or meter box? Request free live removal from The Bee Conservatory before you treat anything nearby. We move the bees out so you can resume pest control safely.

Why Pollinator-Friendly Pest Control Matters in Sacramento

The Sacramento Valley is one of the most agriculturally productive regions in the United States and one of the most insecticide-exposed pollinator habitats in California. UC Davis researchers estimate Sacramento and Yolo county home gardens cover roughly 38,000 acres collectively — enough land that residential pesticide choices materially affect feral honey bee survival, native bee diversity, and the predator complex that controls pests on neighboring properties for free.

Two related shifts make 2026 a turning point for Sacramento gardeners. First, California AB 363 took effect January 1, 2025, prohibiting retail sale of neonicotinoid products for outdoor ornamental, tree, and turf use. Big-box stores quietly pulled roughly 150 SKUs from shelves — including most "tree and shrub" systemic drenches that had become a default product for Sacramento homeowners over the past decade. See our AB 363 explainer for Sacramento gardeners for the product list and legal substitutes. Second, the Western Bumble Bee, Crotch's Bumble Bee, Franklin's Bumble Bee, and the Suckley Cuckoo Bumble Bee all received California Endangered Species Act protection in 2022 — making bee-safe practices in their historical range a legal as well as ethical concern. Our CESA listing explainer covers the property-owner implications.

The case for restraint is also practical. Foliar sprays of broad-spectrum insecticides with persistent residues — including most pyrethroids common in homeowner products — are not recommended for aphid or scale control in Sacramento landscapes precisely because they trigger pest outbreaks. UC Statewide IPM Program documents that pyrethroid applications routinely cause spider mite, aphid, and scale population explosions because the natural enemies that suppress those pests are wiped out faster than the pests themselves. The pollinator damage is the visible cost; the silent cost is a pest treadmill that turns one spray into four sprays per season.

Step 1: Identify Before You Treat

Most insects in a Sacramento yard are not pests. UC Statewide IPM Program estimates that fewer than 10% of arthropods in a typical California home garden cause meaningful damage; the rest are either neutral (decomposers, soil engineers) or actively beneficial (pollinators, predators of pests, parasitoids). Spraying without identification is a coin flip — and the coin is weighted against the pollinators.

A few common Sacramento "looks like a pest, actually is not" examples are worth memorizing. Half-moon notches cut from rose leaves are leafcutter bee nesting activity, not damage — see our leafcutter bee guide. Small round holes in soil are ground-nesting native bees; do not flood, dust, or spray them — see our ground-nesting bee guide. Sawdust at the base of older fence posts or wooden eaves is often carpenter bee tunneling, manageable without insecticides — see our carpenter bee guide. Black-and-yellow striped insects near a hose-end faucet are usually yellowjackets (a wasp, not a bee) — see our bees vs wasps identification guide.

Practical workflow: photograph the insect or the damage, post to iNaturalist or the UC IPM Pest Notes site, and wait 24 hours for an identification before reaching for any product. The Bee Conservatory field team identifies dozens of "infestations" each spring that turn out to be syrphid fly larvae (aphid predators), parasitized aphids (already dying), or simply normal levels of foraging that resolve on their own.

Step 2: Set an Action Threshold

IPM works from action thresholds, not zero-tolerance. The principle: cosmetic damage on an ornamental plant does not justify the cost (financial, ecological, pollinator) of a pesticide application. Treatment kicks in only when damage exceeds an economic or aesthetic threshold that you have set in advance.

A practical Sacramento home-garden threshold table: roses with under 10% leaf damage and visible new growth need no action; tomatoes with under 5 hornworms in a 4-plant bed can usually be hand-picked rather than sprayed; lawn with brown patches under 1 square foot per 100 square feet of turf rarely needs treatment; ornamentals with under 25% aphid coverage on new growth often clear on their own once syrphid flies and lady beetles arrive. Setting a threshold also makes it psychologically easier to leave low-grade damage alone — the goal is plant health, not insect absence.

Step 3: Non-Chemical Control First

Most Sacramento home-garden pest problems clear at this tier. The methods are unglamorous, free, and effective, and they leave the predator complex intact for the next pest cycle.

Water spray

A strong hose-end blast knocks aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, and lace bugs off plants. Most do not climb back up. Apply early in the day so foliage dries by evening (wet leaves overnight invite fungal disease). For sturdy ornamentals like roses, oaks, and citrus, water spraying twice a week for two weeks clears most aphid populations without any spray product.

Hand-picking

Tomato hornworms, snails, slugs, earwigs, and many leaf-eating caterpillars are large enough to remove by hand. A bucket of soapy water at the end of each plant inspection collects them — five minutes a day across a vegetable bed during peak summer is usually all it takes.

Row covers and barriers

Floating row cover (lightweight white fabric) excludes cabbage moth, leaf miners, squash bugs, and cucumber beetles from young vegetable plants. Remove the cover once plants flower so pollinators can reach the blossoms — by which point most pest pressure has passed. Copper tape around raised-bed edges blocks snails and slugs without bait.

Sticky traps and pheromone lures

Yellow sticky traps catch whiteflies, fungus gnats, and thrips; blue sticky traps target western flower thrips specifically. Codling moth and oriental fruit moth pheromone traps in Sacramento backyard fruit trees can either monitor populations (so you spray only when counts exceed threshold) or, with enough traps, mass-trap to suppress the population. None of these methods harm bees.

Habitat for beneficial predators

A Sacramento yard with year-round flowering, undisturbed leaf litter, and insectary plants like California buckwheat, yarrow, sweet alyssum, dill, fennel, and coreopsis hosts a permanent predator population. Lady beetles, lacewings, syrphid flies, parasitic wasps, predatory mites, and ground beetles together eat far more pests than any pesticide kills, and they reproduce on-site so the suppression continues. Our Sacramento bee-friendly garden guide covers the plant list in depth.

Step 4: Low-Toxicity Products When Needed

When pest pressure exceeds your action threshold and non-chemical methods are not closing the gap fast enough, a small set of targeted products can solve the problem with relatively low pollinator risk — provided you apply them correctly. UC Statewide IPM Program identifies four reduced-risk active ingredients useful for most Sacramento home garden situations.

Insecticidal soap (potassium salts of fatty acids)

Insecticidal soap kills soft-bodied insects — aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs, young scale, spider mites — on direct contact. It has no residual activity, so bees that arrive after spray dries are not affected. The catch: it has to hit the pest to work, which means you spray the undersides of leaves where aphids cluster. Apply at dusk so the spray dries overnight; never spray open blooms; rinse the plant the next morning if temperature exceeds 90°F to reduce leaf-burn risk. Pre-mixed bottles labeled "insecticidal soap" are widely available at Sacramento nurseries.

Narrow-range horticultural oil

Horticultural oil smothers eggs, larvae, and small soft-bodied insects. UC IPM specifically recommends "narrow-range" oils (sometimes labeled "summer oil" or "supreme oil") rather than older "dormant oils" — they are refined enough to use on actively growing plants without major phytotoxicity. For Sacramento, horticultural oil works for scale, spider mites, leafhopper eggs, and overwintering aphid eggs on fruit trees. Apply at dusk in temperatures under 90°F, never on open blooms, never when humidity is high (slow drying time = greater bee exposure).

Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) — caterpillar-specific

Bt kurstaki strain kills caterpillars (cabbage worm, tomato hornworm, oak moth caterpillars, oriental fruit moth larvae) by disrupting their gut after ingestion. It has no effect on bees, beneficial insects, or other non-caterpillar groups. This is one of the few bee-safe products that performs as well as broad-spectrum chemicals for its target pest. Apply when caterpillars are actively feeding, repeat every 7-10 days during pressure, and store the product cool — Bt loses potency in heat.

Pyrethrin (botanical, contact-only)

Pyrethrin is the unrefined plant extract derived from Chrysanthemum cinerariifolium, not to be confused with the synthetic pyrethroids (permethrin, bifenthrin, cypermethrin) that share part of the name. Pyrethrin breaks down within hours in sunlight, has no residual activity, and has comparatively low impact on natural enemies and pollinators when applied at dusk. Use only when softer options have not worked, only on confirmed pest infestations, and never in bloom. Read the label — many over-the-counter products marketed as "pyrethrin" actually contain piperonyl butoxide synergists or synthetic pyrethroids; the truly bee-friendlier option is the plain pyrethrin or pyrethrum daisy extract.

Step 5: Products to Avoid in Sacramento Pollinator Habitat

The following classes are either illegal under California AB 363 for outdoor ornamental use, banned by federal action for specific applications, or strongly inadvisable in any Sacramento pollinator-rich landscape per UC IPM and Xerces Society guidance. Many remain legal for licensed applicator use, agricultural use, or restricted home use — the conservation position is that none belong in a pollinator-friendly garden regardless of legality.

• Neonicotinoids (imidacloprid, acetamiprid, clothianidin, dinotefuran, thiamethoxam) — AB 363 prohibits retail sale for non-agricultural outdoor ornamental, tree, and turf use as of January 1, 2025. Systemic uptake means even properly applied product contaminates nectar and pollen for months to years. Detailed in our <a href="/blog/neonicotinoids-sacramento-bees-pesticides">neonicotinoid explainer</a>.
• Carbamates (carbaryl/Sevin) — highly toxic to bees, persistent residue on flowers, broad-spectrum kill of natural enemies. UC IPM does not recommend for landscape aphid or caterpillar control.
• Organophosphates (malathion, diazinon, chlorpyrifos) — diazinon and chlorpyrifos have been pulled from most retail channels but remain in some legacy product. All three classes are highly toxic to bees and increasingly restricted.
• Pyrethroid synthetics (permethrin, bifenthrin, cypermethrin, deltamethrin) — common in "lawn perimeter" and "outdoor home defense" sprays. Persistent residues, broad-spectrum natural-enemy kill, frequent secondary pest outbreaks per UC IPM. Not the same chemistry as natural pyrethrin.
• Fipronil — high bee toxicity, restricted in many EU jurisdictions, found in some ant baits and termite treatments. Avoid use anywhere pollinators forage.
• Multi-action "weed and feed" or "insect, disease, and weed" combination products — UC IPM and Xerces both recommend single-purpose products applied only where needed rather than blanket combinations.
• Metaldehyde snail bait — toxic to dogs and wildlife and degrades into compounds harmful to pollinators visiting nearby flowers. Iron phosphate snail bait is the bee-safer substitute.

Step 6: Timing and Application Practices

Even a low-toxicity product can hurt pollinators if applied at the wrong time. UC IPM, EPA Pollinator Protection guidance, and the Xerces Society converge on the same application rules — these apply to insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, Bt, pyrethrin, and any product still legal in a Sacramento garden.

• Apply at dusk or after sundown. Honey bees stop active foraging when light drops below roughly 100 foot-candles; native bees stop earlier. Most pollinator activity in a Sacramento garden ends by 7:30-8:30 p.m. in summer.
• Allow overnight drying. Any product applied at dusk should be dry by morning foraging (usually 7-8 a.m. May through September).
• Never spray plants in bloom. This includes ornamentals, vegetables flowering before fruit set, fruit trees in bloom, and flowering weeds (clover, dandelion, mustard, henbit) within the application zone — mow or remove the weeds first if needed.
• Check temperature and wind. Below 55°F or above 90°F many products become more phytotoxic; wind above 10 mph drifts product onto neighboring flowers and unintended targets.
• Spot-spray, do not blanket-spray. Treat the specific plant, branch, or section with the confirmed pest population. A spot treatment exposes a tiny fraction of the pollinators a yard-wide spray would.
• Read the label every time. California Food and Agricultural Code Section 12973 makes label directions legally binding. The bee-protection sections of the label are written by entomologists and reflect the actual hazard.

Step 7: Build a Garden That Resists Pests on Its Own

The cheapest pesticide application is the one you do not need to make. Sacramento yards that get into stable equilibrium — diverse plantings, healthy soil, year-round bloom, undisturbed nesting habitat — produce fewer pest outbreaks year over year because the predator complex never gets wiped out. The Bee Conservatory field team has documented this pattern across the more than 30 Sacramento school and community gardens we support: gardens that switched from broad-spectrum spraying to IPM saw pest treatment events drop by 60-80% within two years, with no measurable increase in plant damage.

Key habitat elements for a pest-resistant Sacramento yard:

• Plant diversity. A monoculture of one rose variety or one lawn species concentrates pest pressure. A mixed border of California natives, drought-tolerant Mediterranean perennials, annual flowers, and edible plants disperses pest populations and supports a larger predator complex.
• Year-round bloom. Sacramento's long growing season supports a bloom calendar from late February (manzanita, ceanothus) through November (California fuchsia, sages, asters). Continuous bloom keeps beneficial insects on-site year-round. Our <a href="/blog/sacramento-pollinator-garden-bloom-calendar-monthly">Sacramento bloom calendar</a> maps the full year.
• Insectary plants. Yarrow, sweet alyssum, dill, fennel, coreopsis, California buckwheat, and tidy tips host parasitic wasps and syrphid flies, two of the most effective aphid predators. A 4×4 foot patch of insectary mix in a vegetable bed pays for itself in pest suppression.
• Undisturbed leaf litter and bare soil patches. Ground beetles, predatory mites, and ground-nesting native bees all need either leaf duff or undisturbed bare soil to complete their life cycles. Mulching everything to the same depth destroys this habitat.
• Water sources. A shallow bird bath, dish, or seep keeps beneficial insects active during Sacramento summers when many gardens become moisture-stressed. Pollinator-stressed bees become more vulnerable to pesticide and disease damage simultaneously — see our <a href="/blog/sacramento-drought-heat-climate-stress-bees">drought and heat stress on Sacramento bees</a>.
• Drought-tolerant natives. Plants stressed by drought, poor soil, or wrong-location placement are pest magnets. Selecting natives suited to the Sacramento climate (heat, alkaline clay, long dry summer) eliminates much of the underlying stress that draws pests in the first place. Our <a href="/blog/native-plants-sacramento-bees">10 native plants Sacramento bees love</a> is the starter list.
• Bee nesting habitat. Mason bee tubes, leafcutter bee nest blocks, and bumble bee nest sites support solitary native bees that outpollinate honey bees on many summer crops — see our <a href="/blog/how-to-build-bee-hotel-native-bees">bee hotel construction guide</a> and <a href="/blog/mason-bees-sacramento-spring-pollinator">Sacramento mason bee guide</a>.

Step 8: What to Do If You Find a Bee Colony Before You Spray

A surprising number of "I need pest control around the eaves" calls turn out to be feral honey bee colonies established inside a wall, attic, water-meter box, or eave void. Spraying around a honey bee colony — even a low-toxicity product, even at dusk — can trigger defensive behavior, drift pesticide into the comb that contaminates honey and wax for any future relocation, and create a serious sting hazard for the homeowner and neighbors. It is also wasted effort: a sprayed exterior does not kill an interior colony.

The Bee Conservatory provides free live bee removal across the Sacramento metro precisely so homeowners do not face this tradeoff. Our free bee removal process page walks through what to expect — typically a phone consultation, an on-site assessment, a humane structural removal with the queen, brood, and workers relocated to a managed apiary, and follow-up to prevent re-colonization. After removal is complete, normal pest control around the property can resume safely.

If what you are seeing is not an established hive but a transient swarm cluster — a basketball-sized mass of bees hanging from a branch, fence, or eave that just arrived — no pesticide is needed. Swarms are honey bee colonies in transit; they will move on within 24-72 hours on their own, or we can collect them faster. See our Sacramento swarm response guide and swarm vs hive identification for the visual difference. Our who to call for bees in Sacramento guide covers the full decision tree of free removal vs licensed structural removal vs pest control.

When Professional Help Is Worth It

Some Sacramento pest situations are beyond a homeowner IPM toolkit and warrant a licensed structural pest control operator or a certified applicator. The line is roughly: structural infestations (subterranean termites, drywood termites, carpenter ants in load-bearing wood), large-tree pests requiring specialized equipment (mature oak borers, mature pine bark beetles), invasive pests under California Department of Food and Agriculture quarantine, and stinging-insect nests in unsafe locations (yellowjacket nest in a heavily trafficked entryway).

For those situations, ask the operator three pollinator-protection questions before signing a contract. First: do you have a certified applicator on staff (required for ornamental neonicotinoid applications under AB 363)? Second: what is your bee-aware application protocol — what time of day do you spray, do you survey for flowering plants and feral colonies before treatment, and what products do you avoid in pollinator habitat? Third: do you offer a non-chemical or low-toxicity option for this specific problem, and if not, why? Operators who answer those questions thoughtfully are the ones to hire. Operators who say "we use what works" or "bees are not really my problem" should be passed on.

Sacramento Local Notes

Sacramento's long, hot, dry summer changes a few IPM details. Spider mites explode in Sacramento heat (June through September) on roses, citrus, and ornamentals — water-stressed plants are most vulnerable, so consistent irrigation and mulching does more for mite suppression than any spray. Aphid pressure on roses and peppers peaks twice (April-May and September-October) and usually clears between cycles without intervention. Argentine ants — invasive, ubiquitous in Sacramento — farm aphids and scale on landscape plants, so suppressing ant trails (sugar-based ant bait with borate, or sticky trunk bands on trees) is often the highest-leverage move for chronic scale problems.

Sacramento County is also home to the historical range of the California Bumble Bee Atlas — see our Sacramento Atlas volunteer guide. Bumble bees are ground or cavity nesters and are disproportionately exposed to soil-applied systemic insecticides; the bee-friendly default in a Sacramento yard is no soil drenches, no granular systemics, and no broad-cast lawn treatments. The yellow-faced bumble bee, which still appears in Sacramento gardens, is one of the species most vulnerable to neonicotinoid soil residues — see our yellow-faced bumble bee guide for habitat protection details.

Frequently Asked Questions

What pest control is safe for bees in Sacramento?

Start with non-chemical control: water spray for aphids, hand-picking caterpillars and snails, row covers, sticky traps, and habitat for beneficial predators. When a product is necessary, UC Statewide IPM Program identifies insecticidal soap, narrow-range horticultural oil, Bt kurstaki (caterpillars only), and pyrethrin as low-toxicity options that have minimal impact on pollinators when applied at dusk to confirmed pest hotspots, never to plants in bloom and never on windy days. Avoid all neonicotinoids on outdoor ornamentals (banned under California AB 363 for retail sale), all carbamates, all organophosphates, and synthetic pyrethroids.

Is neem oil safe for bees?

Neem oil is lower risk than synthetic broad-spectrums but is not bee-safe by default. The Xerces Society classifies neem (azadirachtin) as moderately toxic to bees on direct contact, and oil-based sprays can smother small native bees. Apply only at dusk after pollinator activity has stopped, never to open flowers, never on a windy day, only where you have confirmed a pest problem. Allow the spray to dry overnight before morning foraging resumes. For most Sacramento aphid and soft-pest situations, insecticidal soap and water blasts are lower-risk and work as well.

Are neonicotinoids banned in California for home gardens?

For non-agricultural outdoor ornamental, tree, and turf use, yes. California AB 363 took effect January 1, 2025, prohibiting retail sale and unlicensed application of neonicotinoid products (imidacloprid, acetamiprid, clothianidin, dinotefuran, thiamethoxam) for those uses. Backyard fruit and vegetable garden "home use" is still allowed for non-certified homeowners, but the conservation recommendation is to avoid neonicotinoids in any garden where pollinators forage. Only state-licensed certified applicators can legally apply these products on ornamentals. See our AB 363 explainer for the full product list and substitution guide.

When is the safest time to spray pesticides around bees?

After sundown — generally after 8 p.m. in Sacramento summers — when honey bees have stopped foraging and native bees have returned to nesting sites. Allow the spray to dry overnight so morning foraging resumes on dry foliage. Never apply on windy days (drift moves residue onto neighboring flowers), never to plants in bloom (including flowering weeds in the spray zone), never below 55°F or above 90°F. Spot-spray the specific plant with the confirmed pest population rather than blanketing the yard.

How do I control aphids without hurting bees?

Most Sacramento aphid problems clear without pesticides. UC Statewide IPM Program recommends a strong water spray as the first treatment — a hose blast knocks aphids off and most cannot climb back. For repeat infestations, plant insectary species (California buckwheat, yarrow, dill, sweet alyssum, coreopsis) to attract lady beetles, lacewings, syrphid flies, and parasitic wasps that eat thousands of aphids per generation. If an outbreak gets ahead of you, insecticidal soap or 2% horticultural oil applied at dusk to undersides of leaves clears it without significant pollinator risk. Avoid broad-spectrum sprays — they kill the predators and the aphids rebound within weeks while the predators do not.

Do I have to remove bees before treating my Sacramento yard?

If a honey bee colony is established in a wall, attic, water-meter box, or tree on your property, treat removal as a prerequisite. Pesticide drift onto an established hive can produce defensive behavior, contaminate honey and comb that we relocate, and create a public-health hazard. The Bee Conservatory provides free live bee removal across the Sacramento metro. Request a removal first, wait until the colony has been relocated, and resume normal pest control afterward. For a transient swarm cluster (no comb yet, will move on in 24-72 hours), no pesticide is needed.

The Bottom Line for Sacramento Gardeners

Pollinator-friendly pest control in Sacramento is not a chemistry change so much as a sequence change. Identify before you treat, set an action threshold, exhaust non-chemical options first, escalate to insecticidal soap or horticultural oil if needed, spray only at dusk to confirmed problem plants away from any bloom, and skip the neonicotinoids and synthetic pyrethroids entirely. Pair that workflow with diverse plantings, year-round bloom, insectary species, and undisturbed nesting habitat, and most Sacramento yards reach a stable equilibrium within two seasons — fewer pests, more pollinators, and far fewer pesticide events.

The Bee Conservatory supports this shift across the Sacramento metro through free live bee removal that prevents homeowners from having to choose between pest control and a wall full of honey bees, through school and community garden IPM consultations, and through volunteer field programs that build local capacity. If you are converting a sprayed property to a pollinator-friendly system, our team can help with site assessment, plant selection, and bee-safe pest planning. If you find a hive or swarm in the meantime, we will move the bees out — at no cost to you — so the next phase of work happens without a defensive colony in the way.

Editorial note: This article is general educational content from The Bee Conservatory, a Sacramento pollinator-conservation nonprofit. It is not a pesticide-application license or a substitute for product labels. California Food and Agricultural Code Section 12973 makes label directions legally binding — read the label on every pesticide product before use. The IPM and pesticide content here was checked against current guidance from UC Statewide IPM Program, the Xerces Society, the California Department of Pesticide Regulation, EPA Pollinator Protection, and UC Cooperative Extension Sacramento. Guidance evolves; consult UC IPM and the California DPR for the most current product status.